Cracker Lake Trail Backpacking Story

I wrote a whole guide on Backpacking Cracker Lake with all the details on how to do it. From how to obtain a permit to how to park – it’s all there. If you want the story-time version of backpacking the Cracker Lake Trail, here it is.

I suppose I need to start with explaining that Kyle, my boyfriend, was not a backpacker until he met me. For his first backpacking trek, I took him straight up a Nicaraguan volcano; it was hot as heck and really difficult. The Glacier National Park trip was my idea, so I did most of the planning for it. Cracker Lake would be backpacking trek #2 for Kyle, and he wasn’t too keen on my trail choices so far.

I am not the best planner, and I am also not the best at portraying things in the way they will actually be.

So when I told Kyle it “might be a little chilly” while we were camping out in Glacier during the middle of September, I should have actually said, “We will shiver every night, half the park will be shut down, and it might snow.” Our Cracker Lake Trail hike would be on day 4 of our trip, and we had already spent every night wondering if we might get hypothermia.

As for backpacking Cracker Lake, I wasn’t entirely sure what to expect. I tend to prepare myself for disappointment, so I had convinced myself that we wouldn’t get permits without having reserved them ahead of time.

Obtaining Permits for Backpacking Cracker Lake Trail

We arrived at the permitting office right when they opened the day before our hike, with hopes to snag a camping permit. I was ecstatic to find out none of the campsites had been reserved. At the time, we thought we were quite lucky.

In reality, I think people weren’t backpacking out of fear that they would freeze.

The park staff showed us a video about bears. We learned that it is best to make noise the entire time and that human noises are most effective, meaning the bear bell I bought was mostly useless. Clapping, singing, and talking are better, so I mentally took note.

The morning of our trek

After spending another night freezing our bums off, backpacking morning was not a happy one. Typically, I am so pumped to start hiking. Not that day. It was in the 30s, and the forecast for the rest of the day/night was horrible. Rain, sleet, snow, cold temperatures… Basically everything you don’t want during a backpacking trek was projected to happen.

Kyle was probably wondering if I was trying to kill him or in the very least make him hate the hobby of backpacking.

We kept looking at each other with concern. Neither of us likes to bail on things we say we are going to accomplish. Kyle knew I had my heart set on backpacking the Cracker Lake Trail, but even I was faltering. I hated the idea of being wet and freezing cold, and I didn’t see the point in hiking to Cracker Lake if the weather was going to keep us from seeing it in its glory.

We decided to get some coffee at the lodge, warm up, and make a decision.

Then we met Ellen.

This 65 year old spunky woman with long gray hippie hair works behind the desk at the Many Glacier Hotel. As we walked up, she was voicing her love for Nicorette gum to a customer. When the customer voiced that she was chewing regular gum, Ellen waved her off with an “oh sure you are.” I’m not entirely sure what her job was other than to be feisty. We explained our dilemma to Ellen. When we told her we had backpacking permits to Cracker Lake, she made it seem like that permit was equal to gold.

“Well why wouldn’t you go?” she asked.

We pointed out the crappy weather situation again, and she pulled it up on her computer.

“80% chance of rain this afternoon. Not the best. Possible snow flurries overnight. Doesn’t matter, we’re in the tent. 30 degrees at 8am, doesn’t matter we’re still in bed. (She kept saying ‘we’re’ as though she was going to be a part of it.) Well, it might be terrible, but you won’t die.” said Ellen.

I guess that was all I needed to hear. If Ellen said we wouldn’t die, I figured we should go.

Kyle was not totally convinced, rightfully so after his first backpacking trek with me, so I am sure I gave him my puppy dog eyes. I also bought a carton  of Cabernet that I volunteered to carry for the entire hike.

That was it.

I wish I could go back and thank Ellen. We didn’t have a chance because the lodge was closing that day – due to the end of season and, ya know, the cold weather we were about to backpack through.

The hike of Cracker Lake Trail

Luckily, the start of the hike is right outside Many Glacier Hotel, so we were already there to start our adventure.

We strapped our backpacks on, shared a moment of “I hope this isn’t a big mistake,” and started hiking.

Not surprisingly, I immediately began my fearful singing and talking. I was quite nervous about bears because I have occasionally gone down a dark spiral of reading bear attack stories from Google. I don’t recommend this practice before hiking in bear country.

Kyle interrupted my obnoxious bear talk by saying “bears” and pointing.

Sure enough, a mama grizzly and her 2 cubs were running around a good distance down from us. And it was SO cool. They were far enough away that we were able to watch them without fear of them spotting us.

Grizzlies are terrifying but also amazing to see in the wild.

A couple of day hikers caught up to us and the 4 of us decided to hike together for a bit. They say a bigger group wards off bears better. Therefore, the more the merrier. I was most worried about the bears deciding to head back into the forest / straight toward us.

After our heart rates came down, we split back up and continued our 6.5 mile hike. We passed a few backpackers who told us a bull moose had been visiting the campsites. We informed them of the bears.

And wouldn’t you know, it was sunny for our entire hike. Sunny, beautiful, the perfect temperature.

Kyle killing it at the backpacking hobby.

Again, thank you, Ellen.

The thing about this hike is that Cracker Lake does not appear until almost 6 miles into it.

I love love love backpacking and hiking, but sometimes I can get overwhelmingly hungry and tired. I basically shut down. The fun, excited Danielle is done.

At this point in our hike, ya know the best part of the 6.5 miles, I was done. Hiking with a pack on is no joke, and I was craaaanky. When we reached Cracker Lake, with a freaking amazing view, I was so done that when my boyfriend was yelling about how awesome it was, I was responding with mumbled, “yeahs.”

After I said “Maybe it’ll be better tomorrow” (ARE you kidding me? This crystal clear water with the sun shining on it will be better tomorrow?!), Kyle snapped me out of it, made me eat some trail mix, and got me to truly appreciate this view.

Being hangry is such a real thing. Please avoid being it as you reach Cracker Lake for the first time. Maybe eat a snack at mile 5 🙂

This is my I’m trying to enjoy backpacking but I’m really tired and hungry look

Cracker Lake

Cracker Lake is unbelievably beautiful. It’s like God imagined the prettiest blue and then filled a glacial lake with it. The massive mountains around it are just an added bonus.

We continued on to our sites, hung our food, and set up camp. As the evening progressed, we realized that we were going to be alone out there. This was a first. Until Cracker Lake, I had never spent a night in the backcountry with literally no one around. It’s a strange but awesome feeling.

We drank the best wine (it’s called Bandit, they’re eco-conscious, sell containers specifically for backpacking, donate to National Parks, and the wine is delicious), cooked a mediocre dinner, and watched the fog roll in.

Bandit wine. So delicious!

I should mention that the latrine is comically far from the campsites. Of course I follow the Leave No Trace principles, so I had to wake Kyle up at 2am to take a little hike to the latrine. It was snowing. Snowing! We laughed and froze.

A morning of solitude

As much as I would have loved a sunny morning, we instead enjoyed a foggy wake-up alone by the lake. We walked around it, saw a little deer scamper through the shallow edge, and forced ourselves to put our packs back on and hike out.

Happy backpacking!

I always have a feeling of I-don’t-want-it-to-be-over when I’m leaving a backpacking destination, especially when it’s somewhere as beautiful as Cracker Lake.

We had an uneventful hike out… unless you consider my obnoxious singing to be noteworthy.

Finally, we reached the 2nd best part of every backpacking trek – the car in the parking lot. I tend to sit on the ground in exhaustion. Backpacking Cracker Lake felt like an accomplishment that we almost didn’t get to enjoy.

Cracker Lake Trail is a fantastic backpacking trek or day hike while in Glacier National Park. I still can’t believe how beautiful it was. If this post convinced you to go hike it, read my Backpacking Cracker Lake post that will tell you how to do it. Enjoy!!

More on Glacier National Park by Nurse to Nomad:

Guide to Glacier National Park and Campgrounds in Glacier National Park.

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